How I love hearing the rattle of the cattle grid that marks the New Forest boundary as I drive inside. Now, suddenly, I am in 219 square miles of open heathland, with ancient and ornamental woodland, rivers, valley mires, mud flats and saltmarshes; all peppered with ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer roaming free. Britain’s smallest National Park, the New Forest is a unique survivor of medieval European landscape turned modern-day natural theme park. A low lying “fairy” mist often swirls above the heath, and I frequently feel as though I am entering an enchanted kingdom.

In a way, I am: declared a royal hunting ground by William the Conqueror in 1079, the land still belongs to the Crown and remains astonishingly little changed. With 26 miles of coastline, pretty villages and a wealth of outdoor activities, it’s also steeped in living history and tradition. Look carefully at those free-roaming ponies. They are the architects of the Forest, having shaped its landscape through centuries of grazing. Without them, and the “Commoners” who own and tend them, there would be no New Forest.

For more New Forest inspiration, see our guide to the region’s best hotels, restaurants, pubs and attractions.
In this guide:

How to spend the perfect day in the New Forest
How to spend the perfect week in the New Forest
When to go
Where to stay
How to get there and how to get around
Know before you go

How to spend the perfect day
Morning

Start early in Brockenhurst, where you can, if you wish, hire a bike from Cyclexperience, right by the train station. Stock up for a picnic lunch before pedalling or driving for four miles along Rhinefield Road across Whitefield Moor to Rhinefield Ornamental Drive. Here you can see magnificent giant redwoods, planted in the 19th century. Park in Blackwater car park to visit Blackwater Arboretum before taking the one and a half mile circular, family-friendly Tall Trees Trail. Alternatively, opt for the Holm Hill three-mile loop which encapsulates all that is special in the New Forest, passing through rolling heathlands, tranquil meandering streams, lowland bogs and ancient woodland (see New Forest Walks). In late summer, when the heather is in full bloom, the views across the open expanses are spectacular. Pause for your picnic lunch by Ober Water, where there are plenty of shady spots for children to paddle.
Afternoon

If you prefer to lunch in a restaurant, café or pub (booking recommended), return to Brockenhurst where you can choose between the lovely conservatory at the The Pig in Brockenhurst, or, in picturesque Beaulieu six miles away; a Sicilian pizza at Steff’s Kitchen or perhaps fish and chips at Monty’s Inn. You could then bike the Brockenhurst to Beaulieu loop (50 per cent off road; directions from Cyclexperience) before returning to the station.

Those with cars may prefer to spend the afternoon canoeing or kayaking with New Forest Activities (booking essential; children welcome) with or without a guide, on the Beaulieu River. Paddle to the historic shipbuilding village of Buckler’s Hard, viewing it from the water and finding hidden creeks en route. If the heavens open or you’d rather spend your day at a more sedate pace, then head to the Museum at Buckler’s Hard or the National Motor Museum at Beaulieu.
Evening

End the day on a high and travel the six miles to the coast to Lymington with its Yacht Haven marina. You’re still in the bounds of the National Park, but with a dramatically different landscape – the perfect spot for an evening stroll. From the marina find the path that leads on to the sea wall; this protects the bird-rich Lymington and Keyhaven Marshes. Return to The Haven restaurant where, with a bit of luck, you’ll catch a spectacular sunset and enjoy views out to the Isle of Wight while sipping a cocktail and tucking into dinner.

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How to spend the perfect week

Six or seven full days in the New Forest will give you the opportunity to discover its beauty, its surprising diversity and its many features of interest. Start in the centre of this ancient land at the New Forest Heritage Centre in Lyndhurst which will give you a lively overview of the social and cultural history, tradition and ancient laws of the New Forest – as well as an insight into its wildlife and conservation efforts. Enjoy lunch in a traditional inn – both the New Forest Inn and the Waterloo Arms are close by – and in the afternoon, choose a route from New Forest Walks that will allow you to be immersed in the landscape, rather than simply viewing it from a distance.

Walks around Millyford Bridge (passing the curious Portuguese Fireplace, a First World War memorial), Bolderwood and Ober Water are all lovely while the Reptile Centre is another place of interest in this part of the Forest. If there’s a clear night during your stay, note that Hatchett Pond, Bolderwood and Stoneycross car parks are all excellent sites for stargazing. While you are in the Lyndhurst area, don’t miss charming, family friendly Furzey Gardens in Minstead, and quaint cottage-like All Saint’s church where Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle is buried. If you are looking for somewhere special to dine, head to Hartnett & Holder & Co at the Lime Wood hotel which proves that the New Forest can do sophistication and glamour as well as traditional character.

Moving south, there is much to keep you around Brockenhurst, a lively Forest village where you can meet donkeys at New Forest Donkey Walks, take advantage of New Forest Cycle Hire and lunch at the much-loved Pig Hotel. Beaulieu, too, is a magnet with its lovely setting, world-renowned National Motor Museum and Cistercian abbey ruins. A gentle walk along the Beaulieu River brings you to historic, well-preserved Buckler’s Hard, its museum, river cruise and two fine places for lunch: the Riverview Restaurant at the Master Builder’s House Hotel and its pub, Henry’s. For a tranquil, hidden spot on the river, opt instead for a meal at RYSC Gin’s Clubhouse. A few miles from Beaulieu is a children’s favourite: Longdown Activity Farm where they can meet and feed the animals.

On the east bank of the Beaulieu River, close to the Solent, lies stunning Exbury Gardens and, down a long gravel track, you’ll find the no less colourful art gallery and pop-up restaurant venue Palais des Vaches. Close by, facing the Isle of Wight, is Lepe Beach – showcasing the fact that the New Forest offers beach fun (Milford on Sea and Barton on Sea are two others) as well as wildlife in unspoilt countryside.

Keep your attention on the 26 miles of coastline; a mix of shingle beaches, salt marshes, mudflats and soft cliffs that are a vital habitat for various bird species, including migrating waders. Lymington is a centre of seafaring and you can learn the history of the coast at St Barbe Museum. You should try to time your visit to the town to catch the Saturday market that stretches the length of the Georgian High Street. There are plenty of choices for food here too, from brewery and pub The Monkey Brewhouse, to tucked away deli and café, The Larder. Beyond Lymington, take the road towards Christchurch and Bournemouth to discover several treats on the perimeter of the New Forest: Hurst Castle (visit via the little ferry at Keyhaven) and fine dining restaurants Verveine and the Dining Room at Chewton Glen Hotel.

Heading north from the coast and plunging back into the vast tracts of heath and woodland – always with ponies, often with deer, donkeys, cows and pigs on pannage (in autumn) – you can reach quieter stretches of the National Park. Here walking and cycling are the principal activities and roads stretch for miles without a building in sight. Just north of New Milton, notable pit stops include Colin Nash restaurant and, in the farm next to it, Drop the Anchor micro pub; both offer food and drink as authentic as you will find. Another excellent pub nearby is the Three Tuns Inn at Bransgore. There are also two major attractions, albeit very different from one another: Paulton’s Park and Breamore House. Hockey’s Farm, at South Gorley near Fordingbridge, is another engaging family destination where you can buy local produce, meet farm animals and eat in the jolly café. By the time a week has passed, you will be captivated by the New Forest; a rough-cut gem and a world apart set on the western edge of South East England.

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When to go

With excellent walking and cycling at any time as well as both indoor and outdoor activities to suit every season, the New Forest is very much a year-round destination. Perhaps, though, April and May are the loveliest months to visit when the yellow gorse, with scents of coconut and vanilla, is glowing, the woods are carpeted with bluebells, foals are taking their first steps and dragonflies (the Forest is home to 80 per cent of the UK population) and butterflies reappear.
Where to stay
Luxury living

Lime Wood is a petite, buttercream-coloured country house hotel located within the sylvan New Forest National Park. Lime Wood is a place for special occasions, restful spa weekends and romantic breaks. It’s more fun than frills and fuss – think Bridgerton over Downton Abbey.

Read our full review here.
Designer digs

The Pig has been a huge hit since opening its doors in 2011, and spawned a litter of sister hotels. Its design and menu remain on-point, from cosy lounges and rooms to the rainbow assortment of veg to admire in the kitchen garden – and later on your plate in the greenhouse-style restaurant.

Read our full review here.
Budget bolthole

Owned by John Illsley, former bass guitarist of the band Dire Straits, the East End Arms retains much of its traditional charm, while its food is some of the best in the New Forest. Upstairs, there are five appealing bedrooms, perfect for anyone looking for characterful but inexpensive accommodation in the New Forest.

Read our full review here.

Find more New Forest hotels in our guide.

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How to get there and how to get around

The closest airports are Southampton and Bournemouth, which are served by Ryanair and easyJet. There are eight train stations across the New Forest, including Brockenhurst and Lymington. Trains from Waterloo Station take around 90 minutes. National Express coaches from Victoria Coach Station stop at Lyndhurst. The M3 and M27 are the closest motorways. A car here is very helpful, though the area is served by a few Bluestar bus routes. Cars can be hired in Southampton and Bournemouth (Avis, Enterprise, Hertz). Taxis are readily available.
Know before you go
Essential information

Tourist information: thenewforest.co.uk
National Park information: newforestnpa.gov.uk

Remember that this is very much an outdoor area where respect for the countryside is paramount. If you are looking for lively nightlife, look elsewhere; unless you mean a pint in the pub with the locals and a donkey trying to edge its way around the door. It’s not cheap, though: within reach of London, this is an affluent area and the cost of living is high.